Yodi was interested in the effects of the accumulation of cosmetics on the skin.
Interview of doctor Pascale Mathelier-Fusade, dermatologist
Have you noticed a change in the beauty practices of your patients?
"Of course. Women use too many products in their beauty rituals. When I ask themselves, I noticed that their routine consists of several actions, which require several products with different galenics. Therefore, the accumulation of several ingredients on the skin is harmful. Besides too many cleanings strip the skin and make it more sensitive. These routines cause either sensitivity to some people or imperfections for others. Thicker skin of Asian people can handle this layering of beauty products on the skin while European skin is thinner."
Do you point the finger at beauty routines?
"Take time to count all the products you apply on your skin every day.
In the morning, you use two cleansings. The first one with foam and the second with water. Then, you apply a micellar lotion, you add a serum, a day cream, a sunscreen. Then a foundation, a blush, a concealer, a powder…
Each formula provides at least 15 different ingredients… Overall, it about 15! In the evening, hou add two cleansings, a serum, a night cream, an eye contour treatment… You can imagine the number of different substances the skin needs to handle in 24 hours?"
Could you speak more further about sensitivity?
"The twice-daily cleansings strip and unbalance the epidermis which no longer insure its protective function. Especially when this cleansing is done with water with a foaming product. A single cleansing in the evening is more than enough. Cleansing you face in the morning is unnecessary. I therefore recommend avoiding limestone tapwater which is very aggressive, especially for thin skin."
You were also speaking about skin imperfections?
"Absolutely! Over the past ten years, I have seen more and more adult women who consult because they have skin imperfections such as micro-comedones, small pimples and even in some cases painful inflammatory lesions in the lower face. This adult “acne” is different from teenage acne as it occurs older. Some women get acne after the age of 30 even though they have never had acne in their youth. This phenomenon doesn’t appear for men."
How do you explain that?
"This “acne” is partly cosmetic. Women use to strip their skin too much and use too many skincare and makeup products that are occlusive and grease their skin. The accumulation of beauty products clog the pores and causes blemishes and inflammations on the skin. I don’t even mention makeup products which stay for years."
What do you recommend then?
"I start with an evaluation of everything my patient puts on their skin. After that, I reduce the list of products they apply to their face. As a result, their skin gets much better very quickly. If people are suffering from sensitive skin, I make sure to avoid too many cleanings because they increase the irritation process. Usually, a patient with normal skin applies too many creams. It has to be reduced or even stopped. Women with oily skin, must be vigilant and choose suitable formulation. You must learn how to understand the need of your skin."
Women think they are taking care perfectly of their skin while actually doing too much, right?
"Totally. When I ask them why do they use cosmetic products that much, the regular answer is “because I have to”. Nevertheless, each skin is different, and you have to learn how to take care of it. If some skin feels tights and are dry, it need hydration. It happens that some skin doesn’t need a skincare because it doesn’t ask for. Its lipid layer is enough."