How to choose your cold-process soap?

- Categories : Beauty Tips

All year long, our skin is challenged : salt and chlorine during summer, cold and wind during winter, frequent use of hydro-alcoholic gel... No rest of our skin! 

Confronted to these external aggressions, the extra rich soap is a great ally to clean your skin without ever drying it, thanks to the extra rich nutritive agents it contains, like shea butter or the sweet almond oil.  Thus, it will be perfectly appropriate for sensitive skins (dry skins, atopic, babies’ skins...) but will also be appropriate for normal skins

Thanks to the glycerin and oils of first cold pressure it contains, our Organic Extra Rich Soap Sensitive Karité helps to protect the skin hydrolipidic film, for the body as well as for the face and the hands. A multi-use soap for a smooth and protected skin!

What is cold process soap making?

Quite simply, saponification is a chemical reaction obtained by mixing a fatty substance (oils and butters from vegetable or animal origin) with a hard base (potash or caustic soda). 

The cold process soap making or cold saponification allows to produce by hand extra riche soaps enriched with vegetable glycerin. It gives the soap softness and its moisturizing and nourishing properties. A manufacturing method that favors handmade work but also the respect of our nature: everything we love at Yodi! 

To obtain a cold process soap, it is necessary to mix a fatty substance and an alkaline agent while keeping an excess of oil. The non-saponified oil will turn the soap into a super-fat soap, which will have great nourishing and softening properties. Since cold process soap does not contain any impurities, rinsing is not recommended and the soap natural glycerine remains in the product. 

Do you know what glycerin is exactly? It is a moisturizing and humectant active ingredient. It can attract and then retain several times its weight in water: it is like a tiny sponge! It creates an occlusive film on the skin surface, which limits moisture loss during washing and improves the skin's elasticity over time.

Moreover, it is a protective and emollient agent. It allows to smooth the skin, to make it more elastic and even to protect it from external aggressions, since it stimulates skin natural defenses (against UV, pollution, wind, cold...).

It also tends to normalize the skin desquamation. By moisturizing it, it limits the formation of small dandruffs and leaves the skin superficial layers intact. A great ally for dry skin, lacking hydration!

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According to the various manufacture methods, the glycerin can :  

• Be present in the soap. Like in our Extra Rich Soap Sensitive Karité which contains natural glycerin resulting from the reaction of saponification.

• Be removed from the soap, especially during successive soap paste rinses after hot process soap making. Like Marseille soap for example.

• Be added in the soap: some soaps contain added glycerin from vegetable or animal origin, or even worse from petroleum or synthetic! 

 

Steps of cold process soap making

Saponification is a fairly slow reaction at regular temperature. The agitation of the mixture during several minutes, without heating it, speeds up the process. In this method, fatty substances are generally in excess, thus producing soaps which one calls "extra rich". The soda completely disappears at the end of the reaction, and glycerine is preserved in the final product.

So, if we simplify it all: 

Fats (vegetable oils or butters) + hard base (soda or potash) = soap + glycerin

The mixture is then poured into a mold and left to rest for 24 to 48 hours. This is the "gel" phase, during which the soap will naturally produce heat. 

Then comes the demolding of the soap, before cutting and stamping it, then drying for 4 weeks on wooden racks. During this drying phase, which is also called the "cure", the water evaporates, and the process completely takes place. This ensures that no soda remains in the soap which means it is not corrosive. 

Cold process soap making remains a hard to industrialize production method, especially since it requires a very high quality of raw materials used. The choice of materials and the art of dosing are therefore essential!

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And what about hot process soap making?

There is another major type of soap making process: hot process soap making or hot saponification. It consists in heating fat and soda. This technique is used in particular in manufacturing Marseille soap, Aleppo soap, or to prepare the small soap balls (used for industrial soaps). 

Unlike cold saponification, the soda is in excess to be sure that all the oily solution is transformed into soap. 

The soap paste is heated to over 120°C for many hours. Once the cooking phase is over, a salting-out allows to get rid of the potash or soda excess. It is also during this stage that glycerin is removed... Too bad for our skin! This is one of the reasons why cold process soap making is considered to be better than hot method. 

After being poured and cooled, the soap is cut and stamped after 24 hours and can be directly used.

The main difference between cold and hot process is that hot method causes the soap ingredients to lose all their valuable properties. Cold method, on the other hand, preserves all the benefits.

With hot process, there is a lot of discharge and water consumption. The glycerin is almost completely eliminated, which can cause skin stretching and drying... Everything you don't want! 

This method is used a lot in industrial cosmetics production. A particular energy consuming method with a significant environmental and ecological impact. Especially since the soaps produced can be aggressive for the skin!

What are cold process soap making advantages?

    At Yodi, we love everything that is good for our skin and good for our body! So we say YES to cold process soaps !  And here's why:  

    1.First of all, cold process soap contains glycerin which allows a better skin hydration. It helps to avoid the unpleasant sensation of dryness or skin that feels "tight" after use. The oily part on the surface respects the skin natural hydrolipidic film. Cold process soaps are particularly recommended for dry and sensitive skin.

    2.Vegetable oils are not "heated" too much with allows them to keep all their properties. Cold process soaps offer a full range of care products, containing nourishing, soothing and exfoliating active ingredients....That's why it's so important to choose quality, natural and, if possible, organic raw materials!

    3.Made from natural vegetable oils and butters, a cold process soap does not require any preservatives (and that's what we like at Yodi!), because it can be kept over time. Its production does not require any synthetic perfume, because it smells naturally like the vegetable oils used.

    4.The environmental impact of cold process soap is almost zero. Indeed, thanks to cold process making, the energetic impact of soap production is greatly reduced (less electricity and water).

    5.Last but not least... Cold process soap is economical, because unlike liquid soap, you can better control what you use during application. Thanks to your soap bar : no superfluous packaging or questionable products!

Choosing a cold process soap means choosing a natural, handmade cosmetic that favors quality and more respectful of both people and environment.

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Our Extra Rich Soap Sensitive Karité 

For our newcomer, our Organic Extra Rich soap Sensitive Karité, we have chosen cold method. 

Indeed, we wanted to offer you an organic, natural, vegan & made in France soap to gently clean your skin and nourish it. Thanks to soap cold method, we were able to preserve all vegetable oils and shea butter virtues. 

The organic grape seed oil is obtained by cold pressing and is organic certified. Naturally rich in polyphenols and vitamin E, it has antioxidant properties. Organic coconut oil is rich in lauric acid which has a strong affinity with the skin and has an antibacterial action. Finally, organic rapeseed oil contains omega-3, omega-6 and vitamin E, which gives it nourishing and antioxidant properties.

Composed of 100% natural ingredients, our extra rich soap protects the skin hydrolipidic film even for sensitive skin. It contains no fragrance, no allergens and no essential oils. Hypoallergenic and tested under dermatological control, it is suitable for babies, pregnant women and the whole family! 

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